Certain cities secured their spot firmly on the tourist map decades, even centuries ago. Florence, Venice, Paris, and Barcelona have long been all the first stops for any novice traveller. These cities of course warrant a visit and are spectacular. But, as we spread our wings further and start to hit some of the more secondary cities of the globe, I wonder why some of them didn’t emerge as the ‘must-sees’ of the world.
After a long weekend in Granada, Spain, I’m left dumbfounded that its awe-inspiring Alhambra, charming Old Town, and mysterious Albazin neighborhood aren’t said in the same breath as Florence’s Duomo or Paris’ Montmartre. These three stops on our Granada itinerary solidified the city as an absolute ‘can’t miss’ in my book.
The Alhambra
A tour through the Alhambra alone warrants a stopover in Granada. It’s unequivocally one of the most impressive sites in Europe both in terms of scale and beauty. As such, I wonder why its not more often compared to the biggies à la the Colosseum or the Eiffel Tower.
As for its size, the enormous Moorish palace built mostly in the 14th century looms over the entire city. The massive complex is made up of four main areas:
1. Alcazaba – the empty old fort which we skipped all together
2. Charles V’s Palace – the incomplete Christian Renaissance palace built after the Reconquista
3. Generalife Gardens – the exquisite gardens and peaceful summer palace
4. Palacios Nazaries – the Moorish royal palace and the site’s pièce de résistance
And as far as beauty goes, the Alhambra will be a breath of fresh air if you’ve gotten your fill of Renaissance art or Gothic churches in Europe. The Moors drenched their palace with Islamic art and decor. From stucco wall panels, scalloped arches, and exquisite tile flooring, not even one itty-bitty inch of this palace was left untouched.
The only downer when it comes to the Alhambra is how tough they make it to get in! Tickets book up months and months in advance, so make sure to get yours in ahead of your trip or expect to pay an arm and a leg to get in with a tour last minute. Not that I would know from experience or anything…
The Old Town
Granada’s Old Town can definitely hang with the best of Europe’s other Old Towns. Just like its counterparts in Vienna or Prague, this Old Town is chock full of narrow alleyways, cafe-lined squares, a beckoning cathedral or two, and street performers hoping to catch their big break.
But where it gets its leg up is with the Muslim influence that shines through even 500 hundred years after the Reconquista. Moorish brickwork at your feet, Arabic script scrawled alongside buildings, and street lanterns dangling overhead – the influence surrounds you and gives the sense that those Moors never really left town.
Oh…and one other other big advantage this Old Town has above all others is that the cafes serve CHURROS! Who doesn’t love fried dough dipped in chocolate?
The Albayzin
The Albayzin, Granada’s old Moorish quarter, reminds me of other urban enclaves like Rome’s Trestevere or Budapest’s Jewish Quarter. These areas emerged when a minority group was forced to settle in perhaps a less desirable part of town but then said, ‘screw you’ to the majority and made their neck of the woods the coolest.
The Albazin is simply magical. Ancient cobblestones line the streets and gave our dinky stroller a serious run for its money. Super-skinny lanes create a maze and offer respite from the summer sun. Vibrant flowers drip from every balcony and killer views will make your jaw drop. This mystical neighborhood solidified my stance that Granada should be a ‘can’t miss’ for any European traveller.
But, ‘can’t miss’ is easier said than done when you’re on a three nap per day routine. It seems our little one will need to make a repeat visit to Granada and we’ll happily return!
P.S. Once you’re in Granada, here are a few spots that must make their way onto your itinerary:
- Cacho e Pepe: Fab little nook for Italian take-away when you’ve maxed out on jamón ibérico
- Mirador de Morayma: Elegant terraced restaurant where the unbeatable vantage of The Alhambra comes gratis
- El Huerto de Juan Ranas: Al fresco cocktail bar situated at the tippy-top of the Albazin in Mirador de San Nicolas; the drinks are unmemorable but this view will stick with you for a years to come
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