Squint your eyes to make the selfie sticks, souvenir shops, and tourists en masse fade out of vision and Dubrovnik feels like medieval time stood still. With the indigo waters of the Adriatic glistening off the Old Town walls, looming fortresses, and pirate ships docked in the port, Dubrovnik is a majestic retreat that feels like you’ve stepped back in time or sailed off to a fantastical land.
Here is my hit list for Dubrovnik – Croatia’s long-standing Pearl of The Adriatic. Now host to Game of Thrones film crews and home to lots of mediocre restaurants, but ever a treasured seaside escape.
EAT
Azur: Amidst the Old Town mediocre dining scene that’s passable at its best, Azur is a bit of mirage that should be chased. Their Asian fusion cuisine is a much-welcomed break from the ubiquitous pasta Bolognese, margherita pizza, and fried calamari found on the menus of most of the restaurants along the Stradun.
Pobijana ul. 10, 20000
+385 20 324 806
Taj Mahal: A festive spot serving up traditional Bosnian dishes. Never tried Bosnian food? Fear not. I’d dub it as a glorious hybrid of Middle Eastern, Indian, and Mediterranean cuisines. The opportunity to have your maiden Bosnian meal really should not be missed here. A GOTG must do!
Ul. Nikole Gučetića 2, 20000
+385 20 323 221
Stara Loza: Oddly absent from all of the foodie blogs, this back-street eatery deserves a big shout. The seafood-heavy fare is light and fresh featuring standouts like the squid salad with fava beans and handmade tagliatelle with pesto and clams.
20000, Prijeko ul. 24, 20000
+385 20 321 145
DRINK
Buza Bar: This no-frills ‘bar’ tucked into the sea-cliff edge provides the perfect vantage point to catch your first Dubrovnik sunset or watch the young and young at heart take cliff-side leaps into the sea.
Crijevićeva ul. 9, 20000
+385 98 361 934
Glam Cafe: Many tour books will point you to this craft beer bar’s neighbor, D’Vino Wine Bar, but if you prefer locally-brewed IPAs, weisbiers, and porters over a Dalmatian red this is your spot.
Palmotićeva ul. 5, 20000
Cave Bar More: If you fancy a bit of spelunking with your spritzer, find room in your itinerary for a visit to this three-story natural cave bar. Yet to be GOTG inspected, I have a feeling the beachside seating will be perfect for when my cave claustrophobia inevitably sets in.
11-, Šetalište Nika i Meda Pucića 12, 20000
+385 20 494 200
STAY
In a town short on hotel rooms but not so short on visitors, AirBnb or a similar ‘soba’ option may very well be your best bet. We stayed at this conveniently located pad a short walk from the Old Town and right on the bus line to the Lapad beaches. Its exterior needs a massive face lift, but the sea view from the living room made it all worth it.
Adriatic Luxury Hotels: If you haven’t yet drank the AirBnB Kool-Aid, I’d investigate this hotel group’s collection of luxe rooms which span from sleek boutique hotels in Old Town to palatial resorts by the sea.
SEE & DO
Meandering through the Old Town’s narrow alleyways and central Stradun is really the best way to take in the charm and grace of this medieval city. Should you seek some detours, here are a few that are worth the pit stop.
City Walls Walk: Get your heart rate up with this one and quarter mile walk along the city’s 15th century fortification. The stroll/hike affords birds-eye views of the Old Town and sea vistas that are seemingly plucked straight from a painting. A GOTG must do!
Francisan Monastery Mueseum: For a short respite from the heat, the tourist throngs, or both, nip into this serene cloister/pharmacy where monks have been serving local residents their Advil, Tums, and the like since the 14th century.
Placa 2
+385 20 321 41
Elaphite Islands Boat Trip: If you feel you’ve taken your fair share of laps around the Old Town, hop a boat to the neighboring Elaphite Islands. Most day cruises will hit up the sleepy, sleepier, and sleepiest islands of Lopud, Sipan, and Kolocep. To avoid sailing en masse as we did, I’d check out these private options:
Dubrovnik Boat Rentals
Dubrovnik Explore
Lapad Beaches: You won’t get miles of white sandy beaches in Dubrovnik, but there are plenty of nooks to catch some rays and splash in the salt water. Just a short hop on the Number 4 bus out of Old Town will plunk you in the Lapad Beach scene where the people watching opps alone make the outing worth it.
CLOSING COUNSEL
Luggage Storage: If you opt for the ‘soba’ or other non-hotel route, you may find yourself in need of luggage storage when your check-out time and outbound connection don’t quite line up. Head to the Travel Centre at the Gruz ferry port for luggage storage, ferry ticket sales, and tourist information served with a smile. Who needs a five-star bellboy anyway?
Local Travel Blogs: For a treasure trove of seriously local intel, check out these two gems I stumbled upon while doing my pre-trip recon work:
Chasing the Donkey
Frank About Croatia
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